Stroll through a German grocery store or market in February, and at first glance it looks as if both Halloween and Valentine’s Day are being celebrated together. Three-pronged jester’s hats jingle against gingerbread hearts, little pink candy pigs made of marzipan offer four-leaf clovers, and the world’s latest political leaders are parodied in caricature masks. This seasonal mismatch can only mean one thing; it’s Karneval season in Germany!

The broad term Carnival refers to the Catholic traditions of religious observance leading up to Lent. In many Christian-based faiths, parishioners observe a 40-day period prior to Easter, called “Lent”. The significance of 40 days represents the time Jesus spent in the wilderness, as he endured hunger, thirst and temptation in preparation for his ministry. However, there are also non-religious Carnival celebrations. In essence, there are several ways to celebrate this “fifth season” in Germany.

Lent, which begins on Ash Wednesday, is a time of introspection, repentance and fasting. Fasting days are common, as well as restricting from alcohol, rich foods, meat or something with symbolism to each individual.

Thus, an impending period of fasting and restriction can only be offset in one way: a celebration beforehand!

The holiday was first celebrated during the Middle Ages, a time when the average European citizen lived under local landowners or oppressive royalty. In most places, Christianity was brought into a region from the top down, meaning your local elite would’ve introduced the new religion as it took hold in your location. But, people don’t just give up old customs.

For hundreds of years, Europeans in many places had adopted the Roman’s beliefs in raucous celebrations to bring in the new year, which began in the spring as winter died away. In other parts of Europe, pre-Roman belief systems were still in place, and slowly (sometimes violently) absorbed into Christian traditions. These localized pre-spring rituals of costumery, fire and feasting to scare away winter fit well into the pre-Lenten observations. So, Carnival became an amalgamation of many traditions, all focused on partying in preparation for a new season.

According to the Roman Catholic calendar, Carnival season actually begins on November 11: the feast day of Saint Martin. It is broken up by the Christmas season and is resumed again on January 6: Epiphany. This is when the party plans truly begin.

Fasching? Fastnicht? Karneval?

Which one means Carnival in German? Although each name refers to religious-based celebrations leading up to Easter Sunday (similar to Mardi Gras), the terms are actually not interchangeable. Each name represents different traditions, history and regions throughout Germany.

Different regions of Germany primarily celebrate carnival as: Karneval or Fasching. In northern German states, it’s Karneval, whereas southern regions celebrate Fasching. The third term for carnival is Fastnacht, which is a bit less prominent, and celebrated in southwestern Germany, western Austria, Switzerland and Luxembourg.

Karneval, Fasching and Fastnacht are all derived from ancient words:

• Fasching dates back to the 13th century, as "vaschang". Its modern use is Fastenschank, translating as the last serving of alcoholic drinks before Lent.

• Karneval, dating to the 17th century, is thought to be a melding of French, Italian and Latin, carne – “meat” in Italian, levare – “away with” in Latin, thus Karne (or Carne) levare became Karneval, literally translating to “away with meat”, or fasting.

• Fastnacht, is based on the old German word, “fasen” meaning “to be foolish, silly or wild”. Now, add the modern-German word for night, “nacht” and you have Fastnacht – a night to be foolish, silly and wild.     

Revelers have until the stroke of midnight on Shrove Tuesday - the night before Ash Wednesday (Aschermittwoch) - to party. There are often six days devoted to Carnival celebrations. Each day also has a special name in German.

• Fett Donnerstag: The Thursday before Ash Wednesday serves as an unofficial holiday in many regions of Germany. Parties, music, parades, and celebrations often start on Thursdays, and won’t end until Tuesday. Thursday is a happy day that’s celebrated under several names, such as Fat (Fett), Greasy (Schmotziger) or Nonsensical (Unsinniger) Thursday. In many villages, women flood the town square to celebrate Old Women’s Fasching, as Weiberfastnacht, where they will cut neckties from men, but reward them with a kiss.

• Russiger Freitag:  On Sooty Friday (Russiger Freitag), prime TV stations broadcast several “Royal” Fasching programs. In January, cities elected a Fasching Prince and Princess, and assembled a “royal” 11-member council, called the Elferrat. This royalty takes over prime-time television Friday evening. Programs feature a four-hour show filled with all things carnival to include dancing, parodies and of course, lots of comedy routines.

• Nelkensamstagi: Carnation Saturday (Nelkensamstagi) or Greasy Saturday (Schmalziger Samstag) is traditionally a day of smaller parades. Spectators often dress in costume and bring bags to catch any candy that might be thrown during the parade.

• Tulpensonntag: The “biggest” carnival parades are held Sunday or Monday, depending on the region. Southern regions celebrating Fasching, use Tulip Sunday (Tulpensonntag) for their largest parades, notably Munich and Würzburg.

• Rosenmontag: Northern regions celebrating Karneval designate Rose Monday, (Rosenmontag) for their parades, most notably Cologne. Fit in with the locals by donning masks or costumes – and don’t forget a bag for candy and trinkets tossed from the parade floats!

• Fasnachtsdienstag: The last days of revelry are coming to a close on Shrove Tuesday, (Fasnachtsdienstag). The evening is often marked with gorgeous masquerade balls, where attendees unveil their masks at midnight to symbolically reveal their true identities “hidden” during the costumes of carnival. Bonfires are also common, and straw figurines are tossed into in the flames to burn away sins committed during Carnival.    

The crazy days give you the opportunity to see a new city, have fun and reuse that old Halloween costume, funny frock or colorful wig taking up space in your little German wardrobe.

Remember, February tends to be cold and rainy. Plan a costume accordingly; skimpy may be fun, but won’t be enjoyable after hours outside. Silly costumes are best and what most people wear. Lately, full-body adult “onesies” of animals and characters have become very popular since you can bundle up underneath.

Local thrift stores, specialty pop-up costume shops and even the discount grocers will have costumes available starting in January. Online shopping is also an option.

As for accessories, make sure you have a bag to catch the loot being tossed from parade participants and remember a camera to capture memories of the silly partygoers. Take life less seriously for a few days and party with the locals. Alaaf!

Köln Karneval

This is it. This biggest Karneval in Germany. Local Kölners pride themselves in having more Karveal shops, parties, and revelry than any other Germans. In Köln (Cologne in English), they even have their own carnival cheer. Yell “Alaaf!” as the floats go by and you may find chocolate, flowers, or even crazier items being thrown at you.

During the crazy days, nearly 50 parades and expositions take place in Cologne, leading up to the Rosenmontag parade. Every year, more than 100 floats and thousands of people participate in the parade. Join more than 1 million other revelers to admire the whimsical costumes and over-the-top floats, many of which mock current political events.

Want to know more about Europe’s biggest Carnival party? Visit the Kölner Karnevalsmuseum (Cologne Carnival Museum) to learn about the religious beliefs, music and costumes that have inspired the Rosenmontag parade since 1823 and various Carnival celebrations for hundreds of years.

Düsseldorf Karneval

Just up the road from Köln is another huge celebration. In Düsseldorf, nearly 300 extravaganzas commemorate Karneval. Children and teens march through the city center on Karneval Saturday during the Jugendumzug (Youth Procession). The following day, thousands of revelers wander along Königsalle in costume with beer kegs in tow.

On Sunday afternoon, visit Niederkassel to cheer on locals as they race while balancing barrels in wheelbarrows. Then join the anxious crowds downtown as they await the grand event on Rosenmontag, a parade with more than 60 floats that stretches indefinitely to provide hours of amusement. "Helau!" is the cheer here.

 Mainz Fastnacht

Various Karneval clubs and groups have helped transform Mainz into a citywide pre-Lenten circus. Wherever you look, you’ll see clowns, the favorite character of the festival. During the crazy days, a street carnival showcases a Fools Circus, dancing, music and refreshments.

Get your share of laughs at the comedic theatrics and parodies performed at the Saalfastnacht (Hall Carnival); advance tickets are recommended. On Rosenmontag, a 4-mile-long parade zigzags through the streets, bathing the city in the traditional festive colors: blue, red, white and yellow. At the Mainz Carnival, the goal is to be as silly as possible, so have no fear about dressing up and acting a bit absurd.

Munich Fasching

Thousands of people dress in elaborate costumes or formal attire during hundreds of Fasching dances and parties. On Karneval Sunday, take little ones to Karolinenplatz or Königsplatz for views of the boisterous parade. On Shrove Tuesday, arrive early to Viktualienmarkt to witness local women perform a variety of dance styles with impeccable synchronization, despite cumbersome costumes, during the Tanz der Marktfrauen (Dance of the Market Women).

For a roaring farewell to Fasching, stroll through the street carnival erupting from Neuhauserstrasse, Kaufingerstrasse, Marienplatz and Viktualienmarkt. Also, save time to enjoy the Bavarian merriment at the traditional beer halls.

Here is a list of local Carnival celebrations near U.S. military installations in Germany.

Nuremburg Fasching Self-styled as a “Carnival grinch,” the city of Nuremburg has more low-key celebrations that still include parades, balls and children’s events.

Stuttgart and Baden-Württemburg There are plenty of local Carnival celebrations throughout Baden-Württemburg that include interesting regional costumes, masks and traditions, with especially local characters in the Swabian part of the state.

 

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